He'll act coy about it, but my dad likes to knead.

For instance, he claim he only makes bread by hand a few times a year. So what? So long as those times coincide with my visits, seems like all the time to me.

In fact, Dad's bread is standard fare at the Bracey-side's Friday-After-Thanksgiving Day Feast. (Apparently, you need two feasts in a four-day weekend.) In fact, the whole day comes with a traditional menu. The day begins with waffles and bacon. (Cousin Jon, don't forget to bring your waffle iron!) My cousins Cathy and Chris provide a lunch of cold cuts and sandwiches. In the afternoon, all the cousins eat over-priced movie theater food. Dad and Kelly make some form of Crock Pot dinner, from beef Stroganoff to melt-in-your-mouth pork roast. And Dad makes bread.

Dad is also sheepish about the humble origins of his recipe. Technically, he's is right that this isn't Europe's most sophisticated bread. It's a smooth-crumbed loaf without huge air pockets. The crust is eggy-bright and firm, but soft enough that even the little ones at the table eat every bite. For us, though, it makes bread that our whole family looks forward to.

And he'll make fun of me when I say that kneading is very Zen. But he knows I'm right.

Dad will brag about his two daughters, his wife, his superior Monopoly skills... but he's consistently modest about his bread. Must be where I got my good manners.

Dad's Bread
Adapted from the Better Home and Gardens Homemade Bread Cookbook

7 to 7 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

2 packages active dry yeast

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon shortening

1 tablespoon salt

Yellow cornmeal

1 egg white, beaten with a bit of cold water

In large mixer bowl, combine 3 cups of the flour and the yeast. In a saucepan, heat 2 1/2 cups water, sugar, salt, and shortening just until warm (115º-120º), stirring constantly to melt shortening. Add to dry mixture. Beat at low speed with electric mixer for 1/2 minute, scraping bowl. Beat 3 minutes at high speed. By hand, stir in enough remaining flour to make a soft dough.

Knead on floured surface until smooth, about 10 to 12 minutes. Shape into ball and place in a greased bowl, turning once. Cover and let rise until double, about 90 minutes. Punch down and divide in half. Cover and let rest 10 minutes. Roll each half into 15x12-inch rectangle. Roll up tightly from long side; seal well. Taper ends. Place each diagonally, seam side down, on greased baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal. Gash tops diagonally every 2 inches, 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep.

Brush tops and sides of loaves with the egg wash. Cover again and let rise until double, about an hour.

Preheat oven to 375º. Transfer sheet to oven and bake until loaves are light brown, about 20 minutes. Brush again with egg wash and bake 20 minutes longer. Remove from sheets, cool to taste, slice and serve.