Eating Up "Le Grand Traverse"
Full disclosure, though I'm sure I've mentioned it before: I'm not a native Pittsburgher.
No, I grew up in central Michigan, a place where winter frequently started before Halloween and it was wise not to expect leave on the trees until Memorial Day weekend. So what did we do for vacation?
Drive north, of course!
Too many memories of childhood (and teenage and post-college summer) vacations involve the stunning area that surrounds Grand Traverse Bay on Lake Michigan, from Frankfort on Lake Michigan to Northport at the tip of Leelanau County, from Traverse City at the southernmost end of the Bay, past Torch Lake and up to Charlevoix. For the traveling foodie, there are three area staples: cherries, whitefish and wine. So if you only have three days in the area, as I did last weekend, here's the must-do list.
1. Traverse City farmer's market
Due to the vast expanses of water that surround the Leelanau and Traverse area, the climate is actually more mild than here in the 'Burgh. This means one thing for the locavore: an amazing farmer's market, particularly as far as fruits are concerned. As I mentioned, the whole northwest corner of Michigan's lower peninsula is famous for its cherries, and as you drive the gently sloping, bendy roads, you see orchard after orchard after orchard. Berries of all varieties are also popular. So this means, if you can swing it - say, if you can afford a rental house, or even better, if you have year-round resident relatives who are away and your parents are house-sitting for them - it's best to stay somewhere that you'll have a chance to cook. We got mouth-watering, so-fragile-you-can't-even-touch them raspberries, succulent dwarf peaches, green beans, broccoli, orange-yolked Amish eggs, pastured chicken and more. This helps you save money so you can...
2. Take the wine tour
My absolute favorite Grand Traverse area winery is L. Mawby, an all-sparkling vintner located just a little ways up the Leelanau peninsula* from Traverse City. In addition to your two complimentary tastings of Mawby's methode champenoise bubbly, for just $5 you get two generous tasting glasses and a goat cheese or whitefish spread appetizer, which you take onto a picturesque barn porch that looks out over Leelanau's rolling hills and cherry orchards. I made my parents take me to Mawby within two hours of arriving in Traverse.
There are certainly plenty of other tasty wineries on the Leelanau peninsula - enough for a solid day of tasting that requires a DD - but you also won't want to miss the wineries on Old Mission peninsula, the spit of land that bisects Grand Traverse Bay. My favorite new addition is 2 Lads, where I got a delicious dry rosé , but if you go to Chateau Grand Traverse during the summer, you may have the pleasure of having your tasting with my "cousin" Brian.**
3. Enjoy a food tradition
I overheard a waiter at a nearby table at The Bluebird in Leland, who put it best: "Of course the whitefish is good. In this area, your whitefish is your reputation!" Broiled, fried, baked, pan-seared: every restaurant in the Grand Traverse area is likely to offer this aptly-named, mild, flat fish. Whitefish, perch and walleye are the most common local fishes seen at area restaurants, and whitefish is by far the most popular.
4. Eat with a view
At least one of your dinners must take place at a joint fancy enough to have a spectacular water view. On this trip, my dear parents and I dined at the lovely*** (and haunted!) Bowers Harbor Inn on the western shore of Old Mission Peninsula. Our meals were lovely, but the Traverse City cherry on top was the sun glistening off the water and shining through the trees at this historic mansion. Views are to be had wherever water is nearby, so there are countless options.
A few other places to try:
Sleder's Family Tavern - famous for a taxidermy moose head that you are encouraged to kiss
Amical - a tasty French bistro in downtown Traverse, great for brunch
Shady Lane Cellars - another favorite Leelanau winery
Morsels Bite-Sized Bakery - classic bakery treats in miniature sizes
More food pictures from the trip here.
*Leelanau is Michigan's pinky finger, for those of you who like the hand demonstration.
**We recently determined that "cousin" is an easier way to connote familial relation than "step-brother-in-law."
***For the record, I had beef tenderloin medallions with cheesy grits and patty pan squash. See?
No, I grew up in central Michigan, a place where winter frequently started before Halloween and it was wise not to expect leave on the trees until Memorial Day weekend. So what did we do for vacation?
Drive north, of course!
Too many memories of childhood (and teenage and post-college summer) vacations involve the stunning area that surrounds Grand Traverse Bay on Lake Michigan, from Frankfort on Lake Michigan to Northport at the tip of Leelanau County, from Traverse City at the southernmost end of the Bay, past Torch Lake and up to Charlevoix. For the traveling foodie, there are three area staples: cherries, whitefish and wine. So if you only have three days in the area, as I did last weekend, here's the must-do list.1. Traverse City farmer's market
Due to the vast expanses of water that surround the Leelanau and Traverse area, the climate is actually more mild than here in the 'Burgh. This means one thing for the locavore: an amazing farmer's market, particularly as far as fruits are concerned. As I mentioned, the whole northwest corner of Michigan's lower peninsula is famous for its cherries, and as you drive the gently sloping, bendy roads, you see orchard after orchard after orchard. Berries of all varieties are also popular. So this means, if you can swing it - say, if you can afford a rental house, or even better, if you have year-round resident relatives who are away and your parents are house-sitting for them - it's best to stay somewhere that you'll have a chance to cook. We got mouth-watering, so-fragile-you-can't-even-touch them raspberries, succulent dwarf peaches, green beans, broccoli, orange-yolked Amish eggs, pastured chicken and more. This helps you save money so you can...
Bubbly with a view
2. Take the wine tour
My absolute favorite Grand Traverse area winery is L. Mawby, an all-sparkling vintner located just a little ways up the Leelanau peninsula* from Traverse City. In addition to your two complimentary tastings of Mawby's methode champenoise bubbly, for just $5 you get two generous tasting glasses and a goat cheese or whitefish spread appetizer, which you take onto a picturesque barn porch that looks out over Leelanau's rolling hills and cherry orchards. I made my parents take me to Mawby within two hours of arriving in Traverse.
There are certainly plenty of other tasty wineries on the Leelanau peninsula - enough for a solid day of tasting that requires a DD - but you also won't want to miss the wineries on Old Mission peninsula, the spit of land that bisects Grand Traverse Bay. My favorite new addition is 2 Lads, where I got a delicious dry rosé , but if you go to Chateau Grand Traverse during the summer, you may have the pleasure of having your tasting with my "cousin" Brian.**
Brunch at Amical
3. Enjoy a food tradition
I overheard a waiter at a nearby table at The Bluebird in Leland, who put it best: "Of course the whitefish is good. In this area, your whitefish is your reputation!" Broiled, fried, baked, pan-seared: every restaurant in the Grand Traverse area is likely to offer this aptly-named, mild, flat fish. Whitefish, perch and walleye are the most common local fishes seen at area restaurants, and whitefish is by far the most popular.
This mean muskie weathervane guards the old fishing village in Leland
4. Eat with a view
At least one of your dinners must take place at a joint fancy enough to have a spectacular water view. On this trip, my dear parents and I dined at the lovely*** (and haunted!) Bowers Harbor Inn on the western shore of Old Mission Peninsula. Our meals were lovely, but the Traverse City cherry on top was the sun glistening off the water and shining through the trees at this historic mansion. Views are to be had wherever water is nearby, so there are countless options.
A few other places to try:Sleder's Family Tavern - famous for a taxidermy moose head that you are encouraged to kiss
Amical - a tasty French bistro in downtown Traverse, great for brunch
Shady Lane Cellars - another favorite Leelanau winery
Morsels Bite-Sized Bakery - classic bakery treats in miniature sizes
More food pictures from the trip here.
*Leelanau is Michigan's pinky finger, for those of you who like the hand demonstration.
**We recently determined that "cousin" is an easier way to connote familial relation than "step-brother-in-law."
***For the record, I had beef tenderloin medallions with cheesy grits and patty pan squash. See?
Yum! I can almost taste that melt-in-your-mouth beef. Great summary of the trip.
— Mom
August 14, 2009, at 11:18 PMWhat a great story about MY favorite places, too!! You do have good taste, girl!!
August 24, 2009, at 4:43 PMSorry that we didn't connect while you were there. I was at the Film Festival with Renee and Allison and my daughter, Jill.
Keep those good recipes coming!!
Wynne